The Extreme Gourmet, 2006-08-08

La Crême de l’Extrême: The Extreme Gourmet Visits the Globe
David J. Birnbaum, djbpitt+xml@pitt.edu,
2006-08-08
Since the early 1990s the Globe has enjoyed a reputation as a place to see and be seen, with a lively atmosphere and a smart, stylish crowd. Behind that appealing, attractive façade lies one of Montreal’s finest kichens, with food that is as fresh as it can be and that is prepared with expert attention to both gustatory and visual composition.
Pretend that August has an “r” in it and order the oysters (on a recent visit, an assortment of New Brunswick Chiasson and Lac St. Simon and Prince Edward Island Village Bay), which are a briny delight that require nothing more than a squeeze of lemon. Diners seeking a more comprehensive seafood experience should explore the plateaux de fruits de mer (mixed seafood platters), available in three sizes (regular, large, and—perhaps dauntingly—“very large”) and including the best of the available mollusks and crustaceans. The arugula salad with goat cheddar, almonds, and date vinaigrette, a special not listed on the menu, is one of several dishes that combine a small number of perfect ingredients, each discernable and none overwhelming, which exemplifies chef Sacha Lima’s fine sense of balance. Not to be missed is the Angus beef tartare with olives and shallot vinaigrette and garnished with baby arugula (see photo), which is chopped a bit more coarsely than the norm, and which therefore yields an appealingly firmer and drier texture.
Main courses include a variety of fish, poulty, and meat dishes. The medallions of pork with leeks and an apricot and brandy sauce are very well balanced and have an appetizing hint of anise, although on a recent visit the dish was cooked slightly more than the medium-rare to medium that adventurous diners might prefer. While slightly oversalted, the grilled salmon was crispy outside and tender inside, and accompanied by judiciously gingered carrots and spinach and tender-crisp cauliflower. The veal sweetbreads were expertly grilled and sauced with onions, lardons, and—very effectively—maple syrup, and were accompanied by thin and flavorful asparagus. Servings are generous without being overwhelming, and the mis en place scrupulous and appealing.
Bread is fresh and served with slightly whipped butter. The wine list is large, balanced, and international, covering a range of prices, and the 2004 Alain Graillot Crozes Hermitage was an excellent complement to the slightly spicy sweetbread preparation, the pork, and, thanks to the rich and flavorful sauce, the salmon. Visitors from south of the border might be interested to learn that the Quebec government insures restaurants against the losses entailed when bottles of wine are refused by customers after tasting, and our waiter encouraged us to order with confidence.
The plate of Quebec cheeses, accompanied by toasts, green and red seedless grapes, and a cool, crisp sliced Asian pear, and at half the price of the other items on the dessert menu, is a bargain. The assortment presented on a recent visit showed excellent balance: the Cabri cendré located itself happily between dry and creamy goat cheeses, the Gaie bleue was appealingly tangy without being overpowering, and the washed-rind Sir Laurier d’Arthabaska was maturely creamy without running excessively. The Cookies and Cream is an ice cream sandwich for grownups, with rich ice cream nestled between a chocolate chip cookie on the bottom and a brownie on the top, accompanied tastefully by a fruit sauce that was simultaneously sweet, tart, and intense. Charging (however modestly) for the mignardise truffle shows a brief lapse in taste, but this was more than compensated by the complimentary Portuguese muscadet that brought the meal to a satisfying conclusion.
Don’t be misled by the youth of the highly professional staff; except for a single inconsequential misunderstanding about sweet and dry vermouth (an uncommon aperatif in any case), the servers know their job and their food exceptionally well, and they were always present when needed and discreetly absent when not. Service was comfortably leisurely, and never felt either rushed or neglectful. And then there’s the ambience! The Globe is located on hip and trendy Boulevard St. Laurent. On a balmy August evening people-watchers at the open front of the restaurant can mingle with those on the sidewalk, while diners who prefer more privacy can sink luxuriously into the overstuffed leather cushions in the booths along the periphery or settle themselves onto the comfortable leather chairs on the floor. The high tin ceiling with fans and marbled glass light fixtures establishes an attractive visual background, complementing the attractive auditory background provided by the music, which ranges from Sade to Aretha Franklin to Stevie Wonder, and which is loud enough to lend atmosphere without intefering with conversation. With exquisite food served in a stylish setting, the Globe stands out in a city known for its many fine restaurants, and is well worth a visit.

Globe Restaurant
3455 Boulevard St. Laurent
Montreal, QC H2X 2T6
514-284-3823